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X2 MINI MILL
X2 TEARDOWN, CLEANUP and WAY SMOOTHING GUIDE:
Tools and materials needed:
1) Wrenches and Allen wrenches that come with mill.
2) # 2 Phillips screwdriver.
3) One pint kerosene and a small paint brush. Kerosene can be found in a pump at many gas stations. About a tenth of a gallon is enough. At $3 per gallon, that's about 30 cents. Take a wide mouth plastic container with a good sealing cap.
4) Roll of paper towels or rags.
5) 180 grit wet or dry sandpaper or emery cloth..
6) G96 Gun Treatment. This is an anti-corrosion coating. After you have cleaned down to bare metal--IT CAN RUST IMMEDIATELY. You have to protect it after cleaning and smoothing.
PART ONE, DISASSEMBLY:
COLUMN:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689/parts/0
1) First, crank the head up to its highest point and lock it there. Now loosen and remove the nut that holds the spring onto the side of the column:
2) Next, crank the head down to halfway in preparation for removing head/column from base. Now, using large wrench
provided with mill and supporting column from tipping, loosen the big nut. Allow the column to slowly tilt over until it is resting
on the work surface.
3) Now remove large nut from column base. This will allow removal of washer and then column from base:
If you only intend to quickly clean up the mill, jump to step 4 and ignore the following steps about removing the spring
apparatus.
Remove hex screw that holds collar on opposite side of torsion spring:
And remove the collar.
Remove nut from spring housing:
Now remove entire shaft from column and lay aside.
Lift out the Coil spring.
Remove phillips head screws from inside spring support and remove it.
All of these parts have now been removed. They are not necessary for CNC, and in fact they limit head travel.
You can replace them with gas struts or a head counterbalance if necessary.
Remove ruler strip screws and ruler strip.
And the dial pointer.
4) Remove the head locking lever.
And its base:
5) Remove the head travel stop:
6) Loosen the four head gib screws:
And slide the head up off of the column, while taking care not to drop the gib:
Notice in this next picture, that I have removed the control box from the column.
You don't have to do this if all you intend is to clean.
7) Remove the screws that hold the rack to the column:
And slide it off of the column:
8) Now loosen the head travel stop screw and remove the stop. You won't be needing this after CNC:
9) There are three gib screws on the column/base mount. These must be loosened:
10) Four screws hold the round base mount to the column. After removing these,
Slide the mount off of the column while also carefully removing the gib strip.
The next steps are not necessary for only cleaning. I prefer to remove the quill controls for CNC. CNC
operation moves the entire head up and down. The quill is not rigid and can only be a weak link.
If you WANT the quill controls to remain, then skip ahead to step # 11
HEAD:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689/parts/1
Remove the fine tuning shaft cover screws:
And the fine tuning knob & dial:
And cover:
Remove the shaft bearing block:
And Quill handle mount screws:
A light hammer tap will loosen the mount:
And allow complete removal of the quill handle:
If you need to remove the spacer block from the head, heres how. Be aware though, that removing
this may change the alignment between the ways and the spindle and cause tramming problems. Best
to make "Witness" alignment marks before removing these screws, so reassembly is correct.
You don't HAVE to disassemble the spindle for cleaning, but just in case you ever need to take it apart for
maintenance, here's a guide:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Instructions/R8%20Spindle%20Kit.pdf
Now to disassemble the Table, Saddle and base. You may notice that I am replacing screws where they go whenever possible. There are a LOT of different screws to remove, and this will keep the right ones where they go:
11) TABLE:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689/parts/2
First loosen the Phillips head screws and remove the table end cap:
The locking lever:
And the dial pointer:
12) Loosen the four gib screws:
13) Now crank the table all the way to the right, pull slightly and crank the lead
screw right out of the table lead screw nut. Now pull the table off to the right,
taking care not to damage the gib:
Now you can clearly see both the table lead screw nut and the saddle nut. Don't try to remove them
yet. Both are held in place by set screws.
14) Crank the saddle forward as far as it will go. Now lift the rear way cover and remove the Phillips head
screws that hold it to the saddle.
Pull back the way cover:l
15) Now lift the front way cover and remove THOSE Phillips head screws from the saddle:
Pull back the way cover:
16) Remove the two screws holding the front way cover to the bearing block:
And remove the front way cover:
17) Remove the two screws from the pivot plate:
And remove the rear way cover:
18) Remove the two Allen head screws from the bearing block:
19) Crank the saddle handle all the way forward until it comes completely out of the nut and remove lead
screw with bearing block still attached.
Notice that the end of the lead screw is pointing toward the set screw that holds the saddle nut in place.
Loosen that set screw and remove the saddle nut.
20) Now remove the saddle locking lever and then loosen these two gib screws.
Notice the two set screws just below the tip of the locking lever?
Loosen them so you can remove the table lead screw nut:
21) Slide the saddle off of the base, taking care with the gib strip.
22) Remove the three screws holding the pivot plate:
And remove the pivot plate:
If you are going to reassemble as a manual mill, ignore the steps about
removing crank handles and bearing block and skip to step 23:
Remove handle nuts:
Remove handles:
Remove KEYS:
This is the holder for the chuck guard. I don't use the useless chuck guard so removed it.
That concludes part one, disassembly.
23) PART TWO, CLEANING
http://crevicereamer.com/Page_9.html
Tools and materials needed:
1) Wrenches and Allen wrenches that come with mill.
2) # 2 Phillips screwdriver.
3) One pint kerosene and a small paint brush. Kerosene can be found in a pump at many gas stations. About a tenth of a gallon is enough. At $3 per gallon, that's about 30 cents. Take a wide mouth plastic container with a good sealing cap.
4) Roll of paper towels or rags.
5) 180 grit wet or dry sandpaper or emery cloth..
6) G96 Gun Treatment. This is an anti-corrosion coating. After you have cleaned down to bare metal--IT CAN RUST IMMEDIATELY. You have to protect it after cleaning and smoothing.
PART ONE, DISASSEMBLY:
COLUMN:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689/parts/0
1) First, crank the head up to its highest point and lock it there. Now loosen and remove the nut that holds the spring onto the side of the column:
2) Next, crank the head down to halfway in preparation for removing head/column from base. Now, using large wrench
provided with mill and supporting column from tipping, loosen the big nut. Allow the column to slowly tilt over until it is resting
on the work surface.
3) Now remove large nut from column base. This will allow removal of washer and then column from base:
If you only intend to quickly clean up the mill, jump to step 4 and ignore the following steps about removing the spring
apparatus.
Remove hex screw that holds collar on opposite side of torsion spring:
And remove the collar.
Remove nut from spring housing:
Now remove entire shaft from column and lay aside.
Lift out the Coil spring.
Remove phillips head screws from inside spring support and remove it.
All of these parts have now been removed. They are not necessary for CNC, and in fact they limit head travel.
You can replace them with gas struts or a head counterbalance if necessary.
Remove ruler strip screws and ruler strip.
And the dial pointer.
4) Remove the head locking lever.
And its base:
5) Remove the head travel stop:
6) Loosen the four head gib screws:
And slide the head up off of the column, while taking care not to drop the gib:
Notice in this next picture, that I have removed the control box from the column.
You don't have to do this if all you intend is to clean.
7) Remove the screws that hold the rack to the column:
And slide it off of the column:
8) Now loosen the head travel stop screw and remove the stop. You won't be needing this after CNC:
9) There are three gib screws on the column/base mount. These must be loosened:
10) Four screws hold the round base mount to the column. After removing these,
Slide the mount off of the column while also carefully removing the gib strip.
The next steps are not necessary for only cleaning. I prefer to remove the quill controls for CNC. CNC
operation moves the entire head up and down. The quill is not rigid and can only be a weak link.
If you WANT the quill controls to remain, then skip ahead to step # 11
HEAD:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689/parts/1
Remove the fine tuning shaft cover screws:
And the fine tuning knob & dial:
And cover:
Remove the shaft bearing block:
And Quill handle mount screws:
A light hammer tap will loosen the mount:
And allow complete removal of the quill handle:
If you need to remove the spacer block from the head, heres how. Be aware though, that removing
this may change the alignment between the ways and the spindle and cause tramming problems. Best
to make "Witness" alignment marks before removing these screws, so reassembly is correct.
You don't HAVE to disassemble the spindle for cleaning, but just in case you ever need to take it apart for
maintenance, here's a guide:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Instructions/R8%20Spindle%20Kit.pdf
Now to disassemble the Table, Saddle and base. You may notice that I am replacing screws where they go whenever possible. There are a LOT of different screws to remove, and this will keep the right ones where they go:
11) TABLE:
http://www.grizzly.com/products/G8689/parts/2
First loosen the Phillips head screws and remove the table end cap:
The locking lever:
And the dial pointer:
12) Loosen the four gib screws:
13) Now crank the table all the way to the right, pull slightly and crank the lead
screw right out of the table lead screw nut. Now pull the table off to the right,
taking care not to damage the gib:
Now you can clearly see both the table lead screw nut and the saddle nut. Don't try to remove them
yet. Both are held in place by set screws.
14) Crank the saddle forward as far as it will go. Now lift the rear way cover and remove the Phillips head
screws that hold it to the saddle.
Pull back the way cover:l
15) Now lift the front way cover and remove THOSE Phillips head screws from the saddle:
Pull back the way cover:
16) Remove the two screws holding the front way cover to the bearing block:
And remove the front way cover:
17) Remove the two screws from the pivot plate:
And remove the rear way cover:
18) Remove the two Allen head screws from the bearing block:
19) Crank the saddle handle all the way forward until it comes completely out of the nut and remove lead
screw with bearing block still attached.
Notice that the end of the lead screw is pointing toward the set screw that holds the saddle nut in place.
Loosen that set screw and remove the saddle nut.
20) Now remove the saddle locking lever and then loosen these two gib screws.
Notice the two set screws just below the tip of the locking lever?
Loosen them so you can remove the table lead screw nut:
21) Slide the saddle off of the base, taking care with the gib strip.
22) Remove the three screws holding the pivot plate:
And remove the pivot plate:
If you are going to reassemble as a manual mill, ignore the steps about
removing crank handles and bearing block and skip to step 23:
Remove handle nuts:
Remove handles:
Remove KEYS:
This is the holder for the chuck guard. I don't use the useless chuck guard so removed it.
That concludes part one, disassembly.
23) PART TWO, CLEANING
http://crevicereamer.com/Page_9.html
